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Fishing & Hunting The Fishing & Hunting forum is for discussion (on-site content) that directly relates to wilderness fishing and hunting with an emphasis on engaging in these activities while on backpacking trips. Lightweight/packable gear, personal experience/technique, and trip reports are of central focus. [Reminder: PBF is for actual content, not links/reference to offsite content.]


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  #1  
Old 02-17-2012, 10:48 AM
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dsuursoo dsuursoo is offline
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Broadheads

no, i'm not wife-hunting.*badumtsh*

wondering about some opinions RE non-mechanical broadheads out there.

i used zwickey for a long time, specifically the eskimo(which doesn't seem to be all that available anymore). it had that nice combination of simple, hard hitting, and great-flying. big and mean.

i'm looking at tusker broadheads, which seem to be Australian copies of a lot of popular broadhead designs.

i'm a wood arrow kinda guy. anyone know of maybe a simple/heavy/accurate treble broadhead for wood shafts? socket or tang acceptable.

for any other faults trebles are wicked easy to sharpen. they have the angle built right in.

minimum requirements are at least 7/8" wide. heavier tends towards better as i have a minimum 420 grain arrow weight to hit to be fully legal in washington.

Last edited by dsuursoo : 02-17-2012 at 10:59 AM.
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  #2  
Old 02-24-2012, 11:18 AM
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richwads richwads is offline
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The Zwickey Eskimo (and EskiLite for 5/16 shafts) are available from 3 Rivers Archery. They take a lot of sharpening, but I like the weight and shape. Magnus are similar, but the last batch I got from them had a weird chisel tip, probably to solve the reputation of bent tips, but resulting in a tip that doesn't have the advantage of penetrating the hide like a sharp two-blade should excel at.

For now, the Zwickey Eskilite is my choice, as any larger diameter shaft has too much spine for my 45 lb osage bow.
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  #3  
Old 02-24-2012, 11:40 AM
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dsuursoo dsuursoo is offline
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the eskimo is a fantastically designed 'head to use. i had great success with them up in alaska.

i've been wanting to go heavier tho, which is where the tuskers get attractive with a glue-on version of the eskimo that clocks in almost 50% heavier.

i finally found a source for glue-on snuffers! they've got the snuffers, zwickeys, tuskers and a couple other brands all in one spot. the really cool thing about the snuffers is that they come in a 160 grain version, which there's a matching-weight field tip for so i can make up a generous set of practice/small game arrows that are the same weight and (hopefully) same flight. snuffers are also dead easy to sharpen since the angle is built in.

it's good to know the eskimo is still available.

i think the new thing in a lot of tips is the so called 'tanto' tip(which i think is the chisel thing you're talking about). supposedly based on the 'tanto' knife tip(here's a hint. it's not. that's a katana tip, whole different theory to that shape).

yeah, from what i gather it's a reaction to complains about tips folding over when shooting into bone. i notice this is most common with those archers who are using the super-high velocity compound bows, which is part of why mechanical heads are so very popular for those guys. field point strength on the tip, an actual wound channel, supposedly best of all worlds.

there's some kind of funky single-bevel technique making the rounds for sharpening those 'tanto' tipped 'heads. looks stronger/sharper than a double bevel could be.

price on the snuffers isn't much higher than the eskimos OR the tuskers. i might just go for those if i can help it as they greatly pass the minimums up here.

now to get the bow finished... damnable white oak...
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Old 04-07-2012, 01:06 PM
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Benwaller Benwaller is offline
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Interesting thread as I was once an archer. Rotator problem ended that pretty completely. But not until after I had launched a few hundred arrows each and every week for what, fifty years? Seems like it, yes. Hmmm. That is many, many thousands of arrows. Many. It's a lot. No wonder my shoulder is gone.

Back in the day I used to shoot a Drake flight bow, which I am sure you have never seen (very short, 43", Attila the Hun recurve) in field tournaments (NFAA, 28 target, 4 shafts per, 15 - 80 yards, up and down hill, whatever) and hunted with it as well. Also hunted with a Groves, a Howatt and finally (before the advent of compounds which I of course first resisted but later came to love) recurves of my own design and manufacture.

I favor, in a recurve, a bow somewhere near 66" length, 55# draw, pushing Easton 2213 or 2117 (don't know if they still make 'em, actually) 29" shafts with 3-1/2" right-hand natural fletch at 2 degrees. I preferred a 7" window and a hinged shelf rest as I recall. My homemade bows usually ran with fast-taper, 2-1/2" limbs holding 1/8" tiller, lower.

And I was always an instinctive (no posts, no beads, no nuthin') shooter.

Took my first deer in '63 at 45 yards in the saddle of Independence Mountain, Nevada. He just sorta' hopped straight up into the air, maybe a foot, and he came down dead, arrow having passed clean through him and stuck in some greasewood. Heart shot. You know, the little target behind the shoulder. Yeah, that one. First deer blood drawn was with that Drake flight. Fast, man, very fast. Hard on the fingers but faster than hell.

Guns held little attraction in those days.

But never used a long bow as I never cared for the characteristics of the weapon. They stack and unless built to over 60-70# (no fun, none at all) they can't carry enough of a shaft to balance the broadhead. Oh sure, some folks will disagree with that, and that's fine as everyone's opinion is after all protected by the Constitution of these United States.

Just like mine is.

If you want to use a light longbow you ought to stick to hunting grouse or rabbits, in which case you just walk up to 'em and skewer 'em right to the ground. You sure don't need much lumber for that. Just an arrow. Actually a baseball bat will work if you're paying attention.

Can't say I ever saw an oak long bow, ever, though my old man used to carve yew and osage orange for himself, mainly to play indian with. He was a pretty cool guy. Dad didn't hunt with a longbow, preferring a 74# Groves sporting 2420's or 22's (I think that's what they were but it's been a long time; I do remember they were huge and pretty much big medicine coming out of that Groves). But he sure loved building longbows, and the back quivers and his own gloves and armguards; you know, all the trappings. Loved it.

But he did not hunt with a longbow.

Whatever. We both used Herter single blade broadheads, half a dozen degrees right hand to compensate for launch. That was the theory and it seemed to work as the twist was decided through experiment down at the crick (sandy bank, best kind). And we almost always took our deer or elk. Well, once we didn't but it was snowin' and generally miserable and neither of us were much motivated, preferring to stay in camp and enjoy the ambiance of high, stranded-in-the-snow Montana. Might have been the best trip we ever took, come to think about it. Got good a cribbage on that one. And we obviously did not die from it though we both suspected that we might and of course neither of us ever brought it up in conversation at all. Would have been bad form.

The pointy-versus-chisel-tip broadhead discussion has been going on for a very, very long time. The pointy broadhead gets stuck in the bone and will not glance off and keep cutting; it just stops, which ain't particularly helpful. Other than that I don't see much of an argument.

The only argument I know of that is meaningful at all when it comes to slaying deer with lumber and feathers is this (and it is no argument at all either): if, at the range at which your target is presented, you cannot hit an 8 ounce glass, every time, don't take the shot. Period.

Enjoy building your bow, and as always,

Ben
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